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Martin Castillo's avatar

You did a good job of discouraging me from ever going to Europe again by illuminating the mobs of tourists. Of course everywhere you went was a tourist heavy area; I assume there are still places to get away from all that, although the tradeoff is there isn't as much to see or do, and not as much tourist infrastructure to help you see and do it. The Amalfi coast once was paradise I presume, but once a place acquires that title.......

Most of my European travels were roughly 30 years ago and I can't recall any melanated skin anywhere. Certainly not in Italy where I have been half a dozen separate times about that long ago (military). Even 18 years ago in Greece (last time in Europe) I can't recall any, although I think Greece has somehow managed to resist the GR more than many of its fellow EU members have. It appears that some countries (or their governments, anyway) are more eager to bring in the wogs than others, and Italy is among them. Evidently the EU is unable to impose it on all members uniformly.

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Plamen Georgiev's avatar

This past July, we embarked on a similar journey around Italy, Southern France, and a bit of Barcelona, returning through Slovenia, Croatia, and Serbia. We arrived from Greece by ferry, with Naples as our first stop. Unfortunately, Naples was quite disappointing—dirty, chaotic, and exuding a strong negative vibe. In contrast, Sorrento was a refreshing change, bustling with American tourists. The Amalfi coast, while beautiful, was extremely busy, and the roads struggled to handle the heavy traffic, yet somehow they managed.

Rome was a pleasant surprise, possibly due to our stay in Prati, a charming area near the Vatican. Despite the presence of numerous Chinese vendors and massive tourist crowds, the city felt quieter and more relaxed compared to places like London, where the noise is constant. However, Rome faces a rubbish problem, lacking small trash bins due to city policy, presumably for safety reasons.

Small towns and villages, like Bolgheri in Tuscany, remain quintessentially Italian and utterly charming. Genoa, though full of immigrants, left an overall pleasant impression. The surrounding areas, such as Santa Margherita and Portofino, are stunning, although they, too, felt somewhat worn, like an old lady with too much makeup.

The French Riviera continues to amaze, with places like Eze, Antibes, Gordes, and Saint-Remy-de-Provence being must-visit destinations. However, Marseilles has deteriorated significantly. We visited during Bastille Day, and after the modest military and fire brigade parade, the festivities turned into a multicultural mix, with North African music blasting throughout the Vieux Port and Brazilian acrobats performing. An old French lady, hearing me whistle "La Marseillaise," approached me in tears, lamenting, "No, no, no, ce n'est pas la France!"

Barcelona was also disappointing—dirty, busy, and colorful, but it felt tired and nihilistic, though not as bad as Naples or Marseilles.

We spent one day in Grenoble as well. Despite being full of immigrants, it has a really positive vibe. The old town is buzzing with life, and many locals are socializing and having a great time. I don't know how long this peace and quiet will last, but it felt amazing.

Eastern Europe was a breath of fresh air. Rural Slovenia is lovely, though Ljubljana, unfortunately, seemed to have declined. The city was filled with non-local restaurants and graffiti, which I despise. If I had the power, I would impose severe penalties for graffiti. Zagreb was decent, although a local waiter complained about the Euro and the influx of Nepalese migrant workers willing to work for very low wages. At least they are willing to work.

The biggest surprise was Belgrade. The city felt vibrant, with a majority of the crowd being locals. The young Serbians are notably tall and handsome, and many of the girls look like models, with no tattoos. The Serbians I spoke to were friendly and eager to join the EU, not realizing that being outside of it could be their saving grace. I also heard about significant Chinese investment flooding in. Still, Belgrade rule! Visit before it's finished too!

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